Structure® Solanace™

• AHA and DHA formulations.
• Liquid make-up.
• Low surfactant or surfactant-free emulsions.
• Shave creams.
• Sunscreens

The typical recommended use level is 2% to maximize performance and aesthetics. Higher levels of the starch, up to 6% can be used depending on the desired emulsion characteristics, however, at the high levels, the impact on rheology must be considered. Above 3% the starch will yield more gel-like rheological properties.

Processing Requirements-The Structure® Solanace™ starch must be fully hydrated in water in order to achieve performance. Hydration is accomplished by heating the starch to 80° C in water for a minimum of 20 minutes. Upon heating in water, the starch will undergo a perceivable change from a white dispersion to a translucent appearance. The Structure® Solanace™ starch can be cooked in the presence of other water phase ingredients, as long as the pH of the water phase remains above 5. Exposing the starch to heat and water at pH extremes can cause degradation of the starch. An alternative addition method is to slurry the starch into a water soluble humectant and to add the slurry into the water phase of the emulsion; the water phase must still be heated to 80° C for at least 20 minutes.

For use in low pH emulsions-For low pH emulsions, such as alpha hydroxy acid containing systems, disperse the Structure® Solanace™ starch into cold water with agitation. While agitating, heat the starch dispersion to 80° C and mix for 20 minutes, maintaining the 80° C temperature. Keep the starch-confining water phase at 80° C and continue with the procedure for making the emulsion. Adjust the pH after the emulsion is formed and <60° C. The pH adjustment must be made at lower temperatures to avoid degradation of the starch. The combination of pH extremes and high temperature (>60° C) is not recommended.

Additional Information-

Soap free emulsions-Because of the starch’s contribution to emulsion stabilization and stability at reduced pH, Structure® Solanace™ starch can be used in soap free and in low surfactant emulsifier systems. The resulting emulsions can be milder and more water resistant (substantive). The soap free emulsions using the starch can be formulated at a lower pH, closer to skin’s natural pH.

Water resistant sunscreens-With low levels of surfactant emulsifiers can be formulated using Structure® Solanace™ starch. The starch helps provide not only stability, but also water resistance. Once the sunscreen film is formed on the skin, the film will not readily re-emulsify when exposed to water; the effect is similar to using polymeric emulsifiers.Structure® Solanace™ starch allows the emulsion to break on the skin, rub in easily and leave a long-lasting, conditioning after feel.

Aerosol foams-The stabilizing properties of Structure® Solanace™ starch can also be applied to aerosol foams. Incorporation of the starch in aerosol shave foams or skin mousses results in enhanced foam richness and stability.

The Structure® Solanace™ starch is compatible with a wide range of commonly used cosmetic raw materials. In addition, the starch can be used with skin care actives such as sunscreens (organic and inorganic). The starch can also be used in combination with other thickeners and emulsifiers. Structure® Solanace™ starch can tolerate low levels of salts, and can be used in salt containing formulations. An aqueous solution of the starch, however, may lose its thickening efficiency in a high electrolyte environment.

Structure® Solanace™ starch is a finely divided organic particulate. When handling, avoid generation of dust. Use in a well ventilated area. Use of a dust mask is recommended. Avoid contact of the Structure® Solanace™ starch powder or dust with heat, sparks or open flame.Structure® Solanace™ starch should be stored in a cool, dry location away from heat, sparks or fire. Good industrial hygiene practices should be followed when working with this starch.